Bryan Goes to the Mentawai's

Friday, October 20, 2006

Surf travel is like Pringles

I can see how the common belief is that once you start doing surf travel, you can't stop; it's like crack, or let's go for a less harmful vice and call it Pringles and elude to their catchy slogan "Once you pop, you can't stop." Hopping in a little boat each morning and bringing all your gear, food and drinks to go in search of surf is heaps of fun (haha). We find our break and park on it for 4 hours, surf until we can't surf any more then head back here for some lunch and then go back out for an evening session. Sure I wish there were more breaks that are working but still being able to surf about 5 hours a day is awesome. You come back after a couple surfs and then eat good food, watch some movies or listen to some music and drink Bintangs and hang out with new friends until you're too tired to stay up. Everyone here is a surf traveler; some more than others, but we're all part of the global surf travel community. We hear stories of distant lands, other sides of the country, dozens of named breaks we all hear about and some that we've all never heard of yet want to see in person. I'm already planning my next trip and the trip after that; there's no end to it. One thing is for sure, I've certainly found the perfect mix of 2 of my favorite passions: surfing and travel.

For those of you out there that are surfers and have always thought about surf travel don't think about it: just do it. You can make all the excuses you want about why you can't do it and have your reservations and questions about doing it or what not but you can do it; take control of your actions. Home breaks are great and it's fun to surf around your area of the world but there's so much out there; so many different places, different waves, different bottoms (ouch!), new cultures, new people, new friends and a myriad of experiences waiting for you. I'm only 1/2 way through this trip but it's already the best trip I've ever taken. Is it like Pringles? Absolutely. Once you pop, you can't stop!!

Looks like we're off to go check out some breaks a few miles from here. It's still a bit flat but a few of the breaks should be fun and protected from the wind. Maybe it's a Bonzer day...hmm... Anyway, I'll post some more when we get back or tomorrow some time. Laters...

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