Bryan Goes to the Mentawai's

Tuesday, October 17, 2006

Lay Day

Well, it's day 3 here at the resort and it looks like it might be a lay-day for waves. The super strong South winds and fading straight South swell are shutting pretty much every place down. We'll probably go out front to 4 Bobs at least once as it's still about shoulder high, but really mushy and really shallow. That wave and I do not get along. The last session at sundown last night yielded me even more cuts on my feet as that shifty wave kept me caught on the inside again; I'll have to show you some photos of my feet sometime soon. It's a tricky wave. You dont dare take off on the smaller ones and when the bigger set waves come through they look way bigger than they really are and having to duck the sneaker sets is a lesson in confidence. The reef is really uneven and in some spots it's just a couple feet deep in the takeoff zone so when you're ducking you gotta stay really flat or else your board is gonna bottom out or your hands get pinched between the board and the reef. It's not a fun feeling when 5' of wave is rolling towards you and you gotta pick your spot super carefully or else risk being pushed inside where you're standing on reef contemplating the path of least resistance! LOL!

In the absence of surf today a few of us went snorkeling and spearfishing at the island across from ours. Our guide speared like a 15 pound tuna! Here's a goofy photo of me hanging out in the water with the island behind me.


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That island is gorgeous; the perfect idyllic island lost in the Indian Ocean, located right across from the resort.

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Oh and here's Johnny, one of the guides, along with my mate Michael with the catch of the day.


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So, I'm off to go read some books and do some writing while we have a bit of break in the surf and hopefully catch a session out front in the afternoon; 4 Bobs and I will come to a peaceful coexistance before this trip is over.

BTW, I forgot my camera yesterday so no photos of Beng Beng and Pistops. But, it's coming with me from now on everywhere I go.

1 Comments:

  • The beard is coming along nicely! By the end of the trip it should be killer. Enjoy paradise and stay safe!

    By Blogger Kuka, at 8:06 AM  

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